Category Archives: Viet Nam

Hoi An, the colonial Williamsburg of Vietnam

HoiAn

Another from OCS bud Jay Fortun. My old stomping ground of Hoi An (first half of 1970) was a major stop on the ancient Europe-to-China sea route around Africa called the Silk Road. As such the seaside town of about 120,000 today has long had warehouses and villas built by Dutch, Portuguese and Japanese.

My Advisory Team 15’s compound was believed to have been built by the East India Company. Subject of one of my short stories in Leaving The Alamo and more in my novel The Butterfly Rose.

Hanoi is now promoting the little port for tourism, including building hotels, and Jay says the crowds of foreigners show it’s working. Even UNESCO is in on the act, branding the core area of about five by five city blocks a historical preservation site.

Uncle Ho

UncleHo

My OCS buddy Jay Fortun spotted this poster on his recent father-daughter trip to old South Vietnam.

Shabbat Shalom

Mr. B. surprised me by agreeing to join me tonight for services at our new synagogue of Temple Beth Shalom. He proved to be especially welcome because I had trouble hearing the page numbers.

Unlike me, Mr. B. is not as deaf as a post from a combination of age and too many automatic rifles going off at the same time too close way back in 1969.

I doubt if he will want to go very often so I’m planning to sit up closer. It’s that or find someone with normal hearing and sit beside them. As always, Rabbi Alan Freedman was a delight.

War is cruelty

I look at the case of Ensign Wesley Frank Osmus and wonder if Americans would ever be forgiven, as the Japanese have been, for doing something like that to a POW.

Then I think of the Rainbow Division’s encounter with the SS guards at Dachau, promptly lining them up against a stone wall and executing them after discovery of the dead stacked like cord-wood and the emaciated, yet surviving, slave laborers in the Nazi’s oldest concentration camp. Outside the Nazi Party’s original stomping ground of Munich. My Dallas cousin Jerry Stover helped liberate Dachau, but if he participated in the executions I never heard about it.

Not precisely equivalent, of course, but similar. My Lai more to your taste? Wounded Knee? My atrocity more profound than yours, theirs, etc.? The head-choppers of ISIS? The RF-PFs I advised in the second half of 1969 routinely executing NVA prisoners? Complained about it; nothing was ever done.

Gen. William Tecumseh Sherman:  “War is cruelty, and you cannot refine it.”

New MACV website

Speaking of my old “gun jeep” with its pedestal-mounted fifty caliber, there’s a new web site, a blog really, for MACV units, mainly advisors to ARVN and RF-PFs. Some commenter mentioned my old assignment, Moc Bai (Que Son District, Quang Nam Province), saying it was near something called Hill 65. Which led me to post this in reply:

“I was assistant later senior at Moc Bai in ’69, MAT I-11. Never heard the hill called 65. It was LZ Baldy to Americans, Nui Que to the Vietnamese. Americal’s 196th LIB was there for much of ’69 before Vietnamization sent the unit home, though troops with time left were dispersed elsewhere. We missed their good artillery and all the good scrounging since the RF-PF supply system was a bad joke.

“They were replaced by the 7th Marine Regiment whose artillery wasn’t as good and the scrounging became outright stealing because they weren’t so willing to supply us with food, fuel and ammo. In first half of ’70 I was night duty officer in the TOC at our headquarters up the road in Hoi An. Later I doubled up on delivering new radio codes to outlying MATs, some far beyond any other American unit. G-d knows how they survived without supply.

“Hoi An’s MACV compound then occasionally got mortared but nothing serious. The compound’s buildings were said to originally have been built by the East India Company. The town’s harbor was a stop on the ‘Silk Road’ made by sail from Europe to China for hundreds of years before the American war.”

Hardly anyone I have ever met, combat veteran or REMF, in all the years since ’70 ever understood what a MAT was or what an “advisor” did. All but two of the books and all of the movies have ignored us. Now, at least, we finally have a Web site.

Ninety-four years later: The fifty

“The first finished version of this machine gun – the Browning M2 – was completed in 1921 and intended at the time to be used against tanks and aircraft. However, the gun would turn out to be a phenomenally rugged, reliable, and effective gun in a multitude of roles. It remains in American military use today virtually unchanged, and also with many other nations worldwide.”

My old MAT (Mobile Advisory Team) in Vietnam in 1969 had one mounted in the back of a jeep. Worked fine so long as you didn’t squeeze off too many long bursts at a time through its 45-inch barrel. Then the vibrations would snap the welds on the plate holding its pedestal mount to the jeep. Not to mention shattering your eardrums.

Can’t imagine its tripod-mounted ground role. In WW2 they’d mount two or three of them inside the wings of fighter planes to fight other planes or strafe troops on the ground. I expect it to be around for another century. Awesome.

Via Instapundit.

Bonjour Vietnam

I just wanted to get a new link up on the Scribbler for this haunting favorite of mine.

If you don’t understand French, try this version of the song by the beautiful Belgian-born singer, Pham Quynh Anh, and sub-titled lyrics in English.